The Master of Knitwear's Guide to Cashmere*

Cashmere knitwear has always been at the heart of Luca Faloni’s Autumn Winter Collection.

However, despite its reputation as the finest material for the year's colder months, cashmere’s unique properties are not always fully understood. In this guide, you will learn everything you need to know about this luxurious textile.

Luca Faloni’s quality cashmere is not only the finest, softest, and warmest yarn, but it is also a very durable product, which can easily last for 10 years when taken care of properly. Allow Luca Faloni to educate you on the difference between good and bad cashmere, and why this precious fabric is the ultimate winter wardrobe staple. 

Luca Faloni's Guide to Cashmere

Warmth – The insulation capacity of cashmere is three to eight times higher than wool, perfect for maintaining your body temperature. 

Softness – The diameter of cashmere fibers is very small, creating a fine texture, the softest of all yarns.

No itchiness – For the same reason, the density of fibers are much higher than wool, and therefore the texture is not scratchy.

Weight – Given its insulating qualities, cashmere jumpers can be lighter than those made of wool and still keep perfect body temperature.

Shape resilience - Quality cashmere does not shrink when washed correctly and will retain shape better than wool over the years.

Durability – The best cashmere jumpers can last 10 years when the right care is given to the garment.

Pilling – This happens when short fibers twist around themselves in areas of the jumper where there is more friction, creating small bobbles. This phenomenon is inevitable due to the presence of shorter fibers and it afflicts expensive cashmere as well.

However, in the case of the latter, it should stop after the first few washes, and it should happen much less than with cheaper alternatives (where fibers are much shorter). Normal pilling is easy to remove with a cashmere comb, shaving machines, or even simply by hand.

Care – Cashmere fibers are shorter and thinner than most other yarns, therefore you will need to follow the washing instructions to avoid damaging the garment. Read our detailed care instructions to enjoy your cashmere garments for a long time.

What to look for in cashmere and the differences between great and poor cashmere:

Always check the label. What many brands call ‘cashmere’ is actually a poor blend of cashmere and wool. This can be much cheaper, but drastically inferior in terms of quality, feel, and durability.

While a 100% cashmere label can be technically accurate, not all cashmere is equal. A jumper made with superior-quality cashmere is an investment, which will last a long time. Inferior materials and manufacturing result in a much higher cost per wear.

To an inexperienced eye, it is not easy to differentiate between great and low-quality cashmere before the first few washes. Here we analyse what you should look for to make sure you are getting the best cashmere:

Length of fibers: Quality of fibers depends on their thickness and length, fibre lengths range from 28 to 42mm. The longer they are the higher the quality: the jumper will be more durable, and generate less pilling.

Thickness of fibers: The lower the thickness, the softer the yarn will be. Fibers’ diameter can range from 15 to 19 microns, which greatly impact on softness. However, watch out for ‘baby cashmere’; while some brands use this product for great marketing, the fibers are too fine, compromising the end garment.

Touch the jumper to see if it is soft and light and place it on your neck to test for itchiness. Be aware that some cheaper brands disguise the touch by adding resin to make jumpers softer in stores, but this effect will soon disappear. Other brands over-wash them, but this will make the jumpers wear out much faster. Also, try to examine its surface. Excessive initial fluffiness might mean the yarn was spun from shorter and less resistant fibers. Similarly, move your hand on it and see if fibers begin to roll up; this could be due to a high percentage of short fibers, which will likely pill more.

Number of ply: Look for two-ply or higher cashmere garments, where two or more threads of yarn are twisted together to give a more resistant knit meaning that the sweater will be softer and warmer.

Origin of fibers: If the temperature variation the goats are exposed to is higher, the fibers are finer and more premium. Inner Mongolia is generally seen as the best origin, due to harsher winters and the better diet of the goats.

Colors of fibers: Fibres come in three natural colors: white, brown, and beige. Whiter cashmere fibers require less dye to generate specific colors, therefore reducing the negative impact that coloring has on its natural softness. High-end yarn spinners utilize a much higher proportion of white fibers for all colors, not only the lighter shades.

Type of fibers: Fibres can be divided into virgin and recycled. The former are made into yarns for the first time, while the latter come from waste or old fabrics, either already used by customers or from unsold items. Recycled fibers are much less durable, less soft, and itchier.

Knit: Even when the cashmere yarn is of great provenance, poor knitting will negatively affect the final product both in terms of look and touch. The better knitting has a tighter knit. Try to stretch a part of the jumper and see if it goes back in shape easily. 

When you invest in great cashmere products, you are stepping up the longevity and luxuriousness of your wardrobe. These garments will retain quality and shape longer than wool knitwear, therefore earning back your initial investment over time.

Some people might be fooled into buying very affordable cashmere, but once you know what to look for, it becomes clear that the money is not always well spent.

The best yarns, with the whitest, longest, and finest fibers cost up to 200 euros per kg and brands need around 300 grams for a single jumper. Once you add in the cost of knitting and finishing, it becomes clear that anyone selling jumpers at very low prices took some shortcuts.

The only problem with cashmere is that its luxury and softness are addictive. Once you try it, it will become your go-to for cold-weather layering.

*Sponsored by Luca Faloni.

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